How can we measure taste? Is there a way to know, in 100 years' time, what exactly three Michelin-star-studded chef Torsten Michel had in mind when creating his culinary feats in the Schwarzwaldstube of Hotel Traube Tonbach, or how star chef Stefan Neugebauer’s Pfälzer Saumagen tasted? Renowned food critic Jürgen Dollase (FAZ newspaper) has taken it upon himself to create a culinary time line of the period from 1970 to the present day, documenting five dishes each year that are exemplary of today's cuisine.

On October 28, 2024, he presented five new entries to the German Archive of Culinary Arts in Dresden in the presence of top chefs Marc Haeberlin**, Christian Hümbs, Torsten Michel***, Stefan Neugebauer* and Joachim Wissler** . The high-class culinary creations and dishes typical of the time of the aforementioned chefs will be documented so precisely that their preparation and gustatory perception can be comprehensibly reconstructed by later generations. Dresden’s Saxon State and University Library (SLUB) Dresden and TUD Dresden University of Technology came together to bring these unique snapshots of culinary delights to life in 2023.

Katrin Stump, Director General of the SLUB Dresden, stated: “The taste records are a great enrichment for the collection at the German Archive of Culinary Arts, which is unique in Germany. We are delighted to be able to add five more creations from the pinnacle of culinary art for future generations to enjoy. With the inclusion of Torsten Michel, it is the first time that we are able to honor a chef born in Dresden. The records will be an invaluable source for scholars researching German cuisine in the late 20^th and early 21^st centuries.”

“How can we archive such a complex experience and harness the cultural significance of creating these culinary feats? A recipe alone doesn’t come close to capturing the complex interplay involved in the overall culinary experience - but that's exactly what we're trying to do with the taste records,” said Prof. Ursula Staudinger, Rector of TUD. “Taste as an important expression of aesthetics and sensory integration is a crucial interdisciplinary research topic for us. We are delighted to be cooperating with the SLUB and working alongside one of the leading gastrosophs (expert in the art of good eating) in Germany, Jürgen Dollase.”

The records include detailed step-by-step instructions for preparing and serving the various culinary creations, tasting notes, comparisons and discussions of examples from national and international cookbooks, as well as concise ratings and classifications. In addition, Jürgen Dollase has conducted in-depth interviews with all the chefs, which are also included in the records.

Jürgen Dollase emphasized: “This year's taste records navigate culinary excellence, bridging the gap between regional tradition, classic culinary art and the culinary avantgarde, all at the very highest level and with outstanding chefs, such as Marc Haeberlin from the legendary Auberge de l'Ill in Illhäusern; Torsten Michel, the superb three Michelin star chef from the Schwarzwaldstube in Baiersbronn; TV chef and dessert avantgardist Christian Hümbs; Stefan Neugebauer from the Deidesheimer Hof with the Pfälzer Saumagen, which is the subject of constant culinary and socio-political debate, and the head of German modernism par excellence, Joachim Wissler from the Vendôme in Bensberg.”

To mark the ceremonial inclusion of their creations in the German Archive of Culinary Arts, the chefs received certificates and specially designed porcelain by Berlin designer Stefanie Hering. “When I found out about the German Archive of Culinary Arts’ taste records project, I was really excited to get involved,” said Stefanie Hering. “The fine art of cooking is closely linked to my work, which provides the appropriate stage for the works of top chefs. It was therefore a great honor and pleasure for me to create a series of unique porcelain statuettes to celebrate the selected dishes and their creators, as a permanent reminder of this award.”

To mark its bestowal, Marc Haeberlin**, Christian Hümbs, Torsten Michel***, Stefan Neugebauer* and Joachim Wissler** prepared their culinary creations for a dinner with invited guests at the Bülow Palais restaurant in Dresden on October 28, 2024. The taste records are available at www.slubdd.de/geschmacksdokumentationen. They are freely accessible to researchers and the public alike.

About the German Archive of Culinary Arts

The Saxon State Library – Dresden State and University Library (SLUB Dresden) and TUD Dresden University of Technology founded the German Archive of Culinary Arts at SLUB Dresden on October 10, 2022. The extensive culinary publications collection, including manuscripts, books and journals as well as menus , commercial graphics, photographs and audiovisual media, is one of the most significant of its kind in Germany. Its highlights include collections of Ernst Birsner, Walter Putz, Wolfram Siebeck and Eckart Witzigmann.

It forms the basis for interdisciplinary and transdisciplinary research in the humanities, cultural studies and natural sciences regarding culinary art, dining culture and nutritional science and their impact on culture and society over the ages, as already successfully established at TUD. SLUB and TUD invigorate the scientific and societal discourse related to nutrition and culinary arts by organizing events, exhibitions, participatory formats, and publications, thus establishing the German Archive of Culinary Arts as a pivotal player in research, teaching, and the transfer of knowledge to society. For more information on the German Archive of Culinary Arts, please visit www.archivderkulinarik.de.

Contact

Annemarie Grohmann, M.A.
SLUB Dresden Press Officer
Tel: +49 351 4677-342
Email:

Marion Schmidt, M.A.
Chief Communication Officer (CCO) TUD
Tel: +49 351 463-40670
E-Mail: